Hermès' Sanitized modernism
White Modernist poles — with coloured panels that evoked painter Piet Mondrian — were chosen by designer Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski as the backdrop of her fall collection for powerhouse Hermes.
The French designer, who’s often been called a minimalist, used the Mondrian musing as the starting point for a retro and geometric collection. At times, it had a strong sanitized feel.
The all-white coat — redolent of the science laboratory — opened the show, with its long column silhouette and a storm-flap-style shoulder panels. But this then gave way to bold colour: loose, layered knee-length dresses in cadmium blue, green-cyan and vivid red.
Stripes were abundant: in belts or a retro turtleneck sweater with black suspenders. Geometric prints and shapes, meanwhile, fluttered on silk dresses.
Vanhee-Cybulski’s references echoed back to Yves Saint Laurent, who fused Mondrian with fashion in his 1965 collection by adapting the artist’s geometric abstractions to dresses. Here, the Hermes designer has produced a fine collection, if lacking a little in punch.
Watch the video for the full collection
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